Sardegna road trip

The most spectacular coast in Sardinia, on the day you land. Up the fast new SS125 to the limestone coast of Baunei, a booked hike down to Cala Goloritzé (the trail closes to new walkers at 13:00), then over the Genna Silana pass to Cala Gonone after dark. You'll have been up since about 03:30, so the easy version is below.

Day 1 in detail: routes, parking, step by step →

1. 07:201

   Land at Cagliari Elmas, pick up both cars

   Hand luggage only, so you should be driving by 08:00. Zain takes his own car (he needs it to get back on Saturday). Stock up on picnic food and water at the Conad in Quartu on the way out (08:25, open daily).

2. 10:152

   Optional: Rocce Rosse at Arbatax

   Only if you’re past Muravera by about 09:45. Red porphyry towers right at the water's edge next to the port, a few minutes off the road. It adds 30–40 min and pushes the trailhead to about 12:40, so usually skip it.

   Optional · + 30–40 min

   

3. 11:053

   Pedra Longa

   About 2 h 15 from Quartu, at the end of a steep lane below Baunei: a 128 m limestone needle rising out of the sea. Stay 15–20 minutes, then move on: the trailhead is the priority.

   

4. 11:254

   Up to the Golgo plateau

   Fill up at the Api-IP in Baunei (the last fuel before Dorgali), then 40 min up the hairpins to a wild limestone plateau with free-roaming pigs, goats and donkeys. Park at Su Porteddu, the Goloritzé trailhead, by about 12:05. After the hike, Su Sterru, a near-perfect 270 m deep shaft, is five minutes away for the sunset.

   

5. 12:055

   Hike to Cala Goloritzé

   Show your QR code at the kiosk. The path drops through a limestone canyon to the beach with the 143 m Aguglia spire and the natural arch. Picnic and swim at the bottom, leave the beach by 14:45, and you’re back up at about 16:45. Booking is mandatory until 15 Nov (€7, opens at 00:00 on Tue 27 Oct, 250 people at a time). The trail closes to new walkers at 13:00 and the beach at 16:00.

   ≈ 3.5 km each way1 h 15 down, 2 h up≈ 500 mBooked ticket + closed shoes

   

6. 17:156

   SS125 over the Genna Silana pass

   Sunset at Su Sterru (17:21), then back down through Baunei and north on the old SS125 over the 1,017 m pass, one of the great mountain roads of Italy. You drive it in the dark: slowly, with animals on the road and no fuel. You cross the trailhead of tomorrow's hike at the top and see it all in daylight in the morning.

   ≈ 1 h 35, after dark

   

7. 18:507

   Down the hairpins to Cala Gonone

   Check in for three nights. Most of Cala Gonone is shut for the winter, so phone ahead for dinner or cook.

   

The big hike, with Zain. One of Europe's deepest canyons, with walls up to about 500 m and a river bed full of white boulders. The trailhead is on the SS125 heading south, so Zain packs his car in the morning and drives to Cagliari straight from the pass.

Day 2 in detail: routes, parking, step by step →

1. 07:301

   Both cars up the SS125 to Passo di Genna Silana

   40 min of mountain road to the 1,017 m pass. Zain checks out and brings his bag. Park by the old cantoniera and Bar Silana. Bring lunch, 2 litres of water each and €6 cash each.

2. 08:152

   Hike down into the Flumineddu valley and the gorge

   A well-trodden path drops about 600 m through holm oak and juniper, about 1 h 45 down. Buy the entry ticket (€6, cash only) at the kiosk at the gorge mouth, open daily 10:00–16:30. Walk into the narrows as far as the big red dot on a giant boulder. Beyond it is for guided groups with ropes.

   ≈ 9 km return≈ 5 h 30+/− 650 m€6 cash

   

3. 11:401

   Climb back out

   Start back by 11:40 at the latest: about 2 h 15 up to the pass. The view down the valley is the reward. Coffee at Bar Silana or the Hotel Gorropu.

   

4. 14:00

   Zain: Genna Silana → Cagliari

   About 3 h south on the SS125 via Baunei and Tortolì, then the new SS125, so he reaches the airport around 17:15, at sunset. Dinner in the Marina quarter, a night near the airport, then his 08:00 flight on Sunday.

   ≈ 170 km≈ 3 h
5. 14:003

   You: back to Cala Gonone

   40 min back down. Shop for Sunday (it’s a public holiday), then a sunset walk along the seafront to the little Palmasera beach (sunset ≈ 17:21).

6. 20:004

   Dinner at Su Gologone

   Classic Barbagia cooking: roast suckling pig, culurgiones, pane carasau and Cannonau wine. 40 min from Cala Gonone. It’s the last weekend of the season: book now by phone or WhatsApp (+39 0784 287512). Fallback: Il Colibrì in Dorgali.

A coastal walk that's a boat trip in summer. In November you'll have Cala Luna almost to yourselves. All Saints' Day is a public holiday, so shops are shut: buy picnic food on Saturday.

Day 3 in detail: routes, parking, step by step →

1. 07:451

   Cala Fuili

   Ten minutes south of Cala Gonone, at the end of the road. A narrow pebble cove at the mouth of a gorge, about 100 steps down from the car park.

   

2. 08:002

   Coastal path to Cala Luna

   Cliffs, juniper and big sea views, on a rocky path that goes up and down the whole way. Cala Luna is a crescent beach backed by six huge caves and a small lagoon with oleanders.

   ≈ 5 km each way≈ 2 h each wayRocky

   

3. 10:002

   Lunch inside the caves

   Caves, a swim and an early lunch in the shade. Bring everything: the beach kiosks are shut for the season. Start back by 11:30 to be at Cala Fuili about 13:30.

   

4. 15:003

   Boat to the Grotta del Bue Marino

   The sea cave where monk seals once lived, with an underground lake and stalactites. It’s reached only by boat: on 1 Nov they leave Cala Gonone port at 10:00, 11:00 and 15:00 (later in November on request only). Book the 15:00 boat + cave ticket (≈ €40) at grottabuemarino.it or on +39 338 834 1618. Calm sea only.

   Book ahead≈ 1 h 45

   

Morning in the mountains, afternoon on the west coast, and the sun sets into the sea at the end of the cape. Tharros is no longer a stop: you walk past it on the way out and see it from the path.

Day 4 in detail: routes, parking, step by step →

1. 09:301

   Su Gologone spring

   Sardinia's largest karst spring: a deep blue-green crack at the foot of the Supramonte cliffs, with divers yet to find its bottom. Short walk, small entry fee. November hours aren’t published, so phone first (+39 328 564 9983).

   ≈ 45 minHours: phone

   

2. 10:152

   Across the island

   About 2 h 15 via Oliena, Nuoro and the SS131. Lunch in Cabras: it's famous for muggine (grey mullet) and its bottarga. Zia Belledda opens at 13:00.

3. 14:153

   Is Arutas and Mari Ermi

   Beaches made of polished rice-grain quartz pebbles, white, pink and green. Taking any home is illegal (fines are big), so photos only. Mari Ermi, next door, is wilder. Parking is still paid today, the last day of the season: ParkingMyCar app or coins.

   

4. 15:354

   Capo San Marco headland walk

   Park near San Giovanni di Sinis. Walk out along the narrow cape, past the edge of Tharros (closed on Mondays) and the Spanish tower, to the high ground by the nuraghe near the tip, with sea on both sides. The lighthouse beyond is a fenced Navy site. Time it so you're on the cliffs for sunset, and bring a head torch for the walk back.

   ≈ 5 km round trip≈ 1 h 15 walkingEasySunset ≈ 17:24

   

5. 18:152

   Check in at Cabras

   25 min back to town. Dinner at Zia Belledda (from 20:00) or Leopardi (from 19:45).

Down the Costa Verde to the mining coast. Desert dunes in the morning, a tunnel through a cliff in the afternoon, and the best sunset spot of the trip to finish.

Day 5 in detail: routes, parking, step by step →

1. 10:151

   Dune di Piscinas

   About 2 h south via Guspini, Arbus and the abandoned Ingurtosu mining valley; the last 5 km is washboard dirt road. Come in this way: the northern approach has river fords. Some of the tallest dunes in Europe, rolling back from a 7 km wild beach, with no military zone and nobody there in November. Climb the big ones for the view down the Costa Verde.

   Free≈ 2 h from CabrasLast stretch is a dirt road

   

2. 13:002

   Lunch in Buggerru

   About 1 h 10: back up the dirt road and round by the SS126, as there’s no coast road south of Piscinas. Coffee and lunch by the tiny harbour; phone first, as November hours aren’t confirmed.

3. 15:003

   Porto Flavia

   A 1920s mining port tunnelled straight through the cliff, opening onto the sea directly facing Pan di Zucchero. Guided visits only (€13, ≈ 50 min, closed shoes). No November timetable has been published, so phone IAT Iglesias (+39 0781 274507) this week to confirm a tour on Tue 3 or Wed 4 Nov, then book at iglesiasturismo.it. If there’s none, swap it for Pan di Zucchero from Masua beach.

   ≈ 50 min€13November tours: confirm

   

4. 16:404

   Sunset at the Nebida belvedere

   A railed walk above the sea, looking down on the ruined Laveria Lamarmora ore-washing plant and across to Pan di Zucchero. The laveria and the stairway down to it are closed for safety works, so watch from the south viewpoint. Probably the best sunset spot of the trip.

   Sunset ≈ 17:23Laveria closed

   

The Saturday hike from version 1, now midweek. Everything is within 25 minutes of the bed.

Day 6 in detail: routes, parking, step by step →

1. 09:001

   Cala Domestica – Buggerru – Pranu Sartu loop (trail 301)

   A fjord-like cove between limestone cliffs, guarded by a Spanish tower. Trail 301 goes inland over the Genna Arenas saddle to Buggerru (coffee), then back along wild cliff tops past the abandoned Pranu Sartu mine, down an easy rock step into the hidden cove of La Caletta, and through a short mine tunnel onto the beach. The cliff section is marked only with cairns, so carry the GPX, and don’t do the rock step if it’s wet.

   ≈ 11.5 km loop4 h 30–5 h+350–500 mNo shade

   

2. 13:301

   Picnic and (maybe) a swim at Cala Domestica

   The sea is still about 20 °C. The cove is sheltered from everything except a strong westerly. Bring lunch: the beach bar is probably shut.

   

3. 15:152

   Boat to the Grotta Azzurra, or Pan di Zucchero from Masua

   A small sea cave about 1 km north-west of Pan di Zucchero that glows electric blue inside. You can only get there by boat, RIB or SUP from Masua beach, and only in calm sea. The Masua operators run April–October, so a November trip is unlikely: ask Warung Beach (+39 392 819 7964) about a private trip. If nothing runs, sit on Masua beach under the sea stack.

   Unlikely in NovemberSea-state dependent

   

4. 16:50

   Sunset at Nebida or Masua

   Back to the Nebida belvedere for a second round (sunset ≈ 17:22), or watch from Masua beach behind Pan di Zucchero. The path to the Spanish tower above Cala Domestica is overgrown.

V1's landing day, run backwards. The whole south coast in one go, ending with a sunset walk above Cagliari and a short drive to the last base.

Day 7 in detail: routes, parking, step by step →

1. 09:401

   Porto Pino beach and dunes

   Long white beach, pine forest and pink-tinged lagoons. Walk east along the beach towards the famous white dunes (Sabbie Bianche), as far as the military boundary signs: the dunes are inside the Capo Teulada firing range and only open in summer.

   1 h 10 from NebidaWhite dunes closed

   

2. 11:252

   Costa del Sud panoramic road

   The SP71 from Teulada to Chia is one of the island's great coast roads. Stop at the Capo Malfatano viewpoint and above Tuerredda. Allow 40–60 min with stops, and fill up before Teulada: there’s no fuel on the SP71.

   

3. 12:053

   Torre di Chia and Su Giudeu

   A 10-minute climb to the Spanish watchtower gives the view over Su Giudeu's dunes, the little islet and the lagoon behind (often flamingos). Walk the dunes to Su Giudeu. Lunch in Chia (November opening is unconfirmed, so phone) or a picnic from L’Incontro Market.

   Short walks

   

4. 15:354

   Optional: flamingos at Molentargius

   1 h 15 east from Chia to Cagliari (keep out of the ZTL camera zones and off the Lungomare Poetto). If you’re on time, the park entrance is 6 min from Marina Piccola: walk 1 km to the hide where hundreds of flamingos winter in the salt pans. Free, open 07:00–18:00.

   ≈ 40 minOptional

   

5. 16:205

   Sella del Diavolo

   The headland at the end of Poetto beach: a short climb on a rocky path to old WWII lookouts, with views down onto turquoise coves and across the whole Gulf of Cagliari. Park at Marina Piccola, be on top for sunset, and bring head torches for the way down.

   ≈ 3.5 km round trip1.5 h+140 mSunset ≈ 17:18

   

6. 18:106

   Drive to Villasimius

   About 1 h 15 on the inland SS554, SS125var and SP19, not the SP17 coast road: it’s slower, unlit and full of blind bends. Check in.

A slow last day of beaches and short headland walks. Costa Rei is in, as you asked.

Day 8 in detail: routes, parking, step by step →

1. 09:001

   Cala Pira, Capo Ferrato and Costa Rei

   A short stop at Cala Pira and its tower, then to the end of the road at Capo Ferrato for an easy coast walk on granite and juniper to the lighthouse and the coves beyond (picnic: nothing is open). On the way back, half an hour on Costa Rei’s long white beach.

   ≈ 8 km easy walkPicnic

   

2. 15:152

   Punta Molentis

   A sandbar with a double beach, sea on both sides, and granite boulders at the point. Best swim of the day, and free again now the summer ticketing has ended.

   

3. 16:203

   Porto Giunco, the flamingo lagoon and the tower

   The Stagno di Notteri behind the beach usually has flamingos. Walk 15–20 minutes up to the Torre di Porto Giunco for the classic view over both, and stay for the sunset.

   Sunset ≈ 17:16

   

FR19 Cagliari 09:20 → Bologna 10:40, then FR788 Bologna 17:50 → Eindhoven 19:40 (both checked against the current schedule on 26 Oct).

Day 9 in detail: routes, parking, step by step →

1. 06:151

   Leave Villasimius

   Alarm at 05:30; it’s dark until about 06:30. Inland via the SP19, SS125var and SS554, not the SP17. Fill the tank at the Eni at the Elmas exit.

2. 07:302

   Return the car at CAG

   Rental return is in the multi-storey car park by the terminal. Only Avis, Budget and Maggiore open before 08:00, so check your company’s key-box or early-return rules now. Hand luggage only, so security is quick.

3. 09:202

   FR19 to Bologna

   Arrive Bologna 10:40.