Day 3 · Sunday · All Saints’ Day

Day 3 · Sun 1 NovCala Luna on foot, and the Bue Marino cave

A coastal walk to Cala Luna that most people only see from a boat, then the afternoon boat into the monk-seal cave. Everything is within 10 minutes of the bed, so it’s an easier day before the long crossing tomorrow.

Leave07:4510 min to the trailhead
Hike10 km≈ +450 m · 4 h
Cave boat15:00book ahead
Driving≈ 8 km20 min
Sunset17:19dark by 17:47
SleepCala Gononenight 3 of 3

Before you set off

  • Book the 15:00 Bue Marino boat. On 1 Nov the boat visits leave Cala Gonone port at 10:00, 11:00 and 15:00. Later in November they run on request only. The cave is reached only by sea: the land path is closed. Easiest is a combined boat + cave ticket from Lampu 1 at grottabuemarino.it (online sales close 45 min before), or phone the cave office on +39 338 834 1618.
  • Picnic and 2 litres of water each, bought yesterday. The Cala Luna kiosk will be shut.
  • Proper shoes: the path is rocky and the rocks polished by foot traffic are slippery even when dry.
  • Swimsuit. Cala Luna and Cala Fuili are both good swims.
  • Plan to walk both ways. The NCTM boats to Cala Luna run until All Saints’ Day (1 Nov), but in low season they only sail with at least 10 passengers and the Cala Luna pier is closed, so boats land on the sand. Treat a boat as a bonus (see “If things change”).
  • It’s All Saints’ Day: a public holiday, and many shops are shut.

Step by step

  1. 07:45Drive

    Cala Gonone → Cala Fuili

    3 km · 10 min
    Viale Bue Marino
    1. From the seafront go south along Lungomare Palmasera, which becomes Via La Favorita, then turn left onto Viale del Bue Marino.
    2. It climbs out of town above the coast. Follow it for about 3 km to the end of the road at the Cala Fuili viewpoint (40.25693, 9.62492). The last stretch is narrow and winding.
    Cala Fuili car parks

    There are only a few spaces at the road end. Three free car parks line the last 800 m of the road; this one, the first you come to, has room for 16 cars. Others are at 40.26160, 9.62603 and 40.26338, 9.62695. In November you’ll probably find space at the end.

    Cost: Free

    Navigate here ↗Pin40.26084, 9.62519

  2. 08:001Hike

    Coastal path: Cala Fuili → Cala Luna

    The official trail Z-NU-B-162. A rocky path that goes up and down along the cliffs, through juniper and holm oak, with big sea views. It ends at a crescent beach backed by huge caves and a little oleander lagoon. In summer this is a boat trip; in November you’ll have it almost to yourselves.

    The trail, step by step

    Distance5 km each way
    Height≈ +230 m each way
    Time≈ 2 h each way
    GradeE (hiking)
    WaterNone
    1. 08:00Top of the steps (40.25672, 9.62455). About 100 rock-cut steps go down into the Codula Fuili, the gorge right behind the beach.
    2. 08:10Cross the gorge bed and zig-zag up the south side.
    3. 08:30First fork: keep right. The left branch drops towards the Bue Marino cave, but the cave can’t be entered from land and that path isn’t maintained.
    4. 08:45A gentle climb through scrub to the junction with the path coming down from Toddeitto. Stay on the coastal line.
    5. 09:00The middle section: moderate ups and downs, with side paths going left to small coves and right up the mountain. This is where people go wrong: stay on the most worn path. Waymarks are a circle with a triangle carved into the rock, plus some paint.
    6. 09:25Down into the Oddoana gorge, then up through holm oak and juniper on the side of Fruncu Nieddu. This is the only real shade.
    7. 09:45The ridge above Cala Luna, the classic viewpoint. Then a steep descent into the Codula di Luna. Several paths cross the gorge bed, but only one leads to the beach: keep heading for the sea.
    8. 10:00Cala Luna. The lagoon and oleanders are behind the beach and the big caves are at the north end.
    9. 10:00–11:30Caves, swim, early lunch in the shade of the caves.
    10. 11:30Start back the same way, about 2 h.
    11. 13:30Back at Cala Fuili. Go down to the cove for a swim if you have time.
    Status

    The official trail page (updated June 2026) lists the path as “under review or maintenance”, and warns about wild boar and ticks. It’s still heavily walked. After heavy rain, the gorge beds at Fuili and Luna can carry water.

    10 km return≈ +450 m in total4 h walking
    Falk2 · CC BY-SA 4.0
  3. 13:50Drive

    Cala Fuili → Cala Gonone port

    3 km · 10 min
    Viale Bue Marino
    1. Back down Viale del Bue Marino into town and follow the seafront to the port.
    Port car park Check on the day

    Pay-and-display spaces by the port (fee=yes on OpenStreetMap). Charges are seasonal; in November it is probably free, but read the sign. Free street parking in town is a few minutes’ walk away.

    Cost: Check the sign

    Navigate here ↗Pin40.28382, 9.63479

  4. 15:002Boat

    Boat to the Grotta del Bue Marino

    The sea cave where the Mediterranean monk seal (the “bue marino”, sea ox) once bred. A 15–20 minute boat ride along the cliffs, then a guided walk of about 1 hour and 900 m inside, past an underground lake and stalactites. It’s about 18 °C inside.

    Collect tickets at the Comune di Dorgali ticket office in the middle of the port, or at Lampu 1, Viale Colombo 32 (up to 10 min before departure). The cave ticket is €10–10.50; the NCTM boat alone is €32, so a combined ticket comes to about €40–45. Back at the port at about 16:45.

    ≈ €40 each, boat + caveCalm sea only≈ 1 h 45 in total
    JYB Devot · CC BY-SA 4.0
  5. 16:503Evening

    Sunset and dinner in Cala Gonone

    Sunset is at 17:19. Aperitivo on the seafront, then dinner if something is open. Phone first: Ristorante al Porto (+39 0784 93185), La Favorita (+39 0784 93169), Il Banjo (+39 0784 93748). November opening is not confirmed for any of them. Pack the car tonight: tomorrow is a long drive.

If things change

If only the morning boats run

Take the 10:00 boat first (back at about 11:30), start walking at 11:45, reach Cala Luna at 13:45, leave at 14:15 and you’re back at Cala Fuili by about 16:15, an hour before sunset.

Easier version

Walk only to the ridge above Cala Luna (≈ 1 h 45 each way) or to the first big viewpoint (≈ 45 min), then spend the afternoon on the seafront and do the 15:00 cave boat.

One way by boat: if NCTM confirms a sailing on 1 Nov (+39 0784 93305; returns from Cala Luna at 12:30, 15:30, 16:30), walk out as planned and ride the 12:30 boat back to the port. Then fetch the car from Cala Fuili (3 km, 40 min on foot, or a taxi) before the 15:00 cave boat.

If it rains

The cave boat doesn’t run in rough sea. Do the Grotta di Ispinigoli instead (if you haven’t yet; tours 11:00 and 12:00, phone +39 348 478 0104 to check the road, as the SS125 towards Orosei is closed) and a Cannonau tasting at Cantina Dorgali, or drive to Orgosolo for the murals (45 min).

Numbers and links

Bue Marino

  • grottabuemarino.comOfficial cave site · +39 338 834 1618 · info@grottabuemarino.com
  • grottabuemarino.itLampu 1, Viale Colombo 32 · boat + cave tickets online
  • Timetable 1 Nov10:00 · 11:00 · 15:00, then on request in November

Cala Gonone